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35 - 50 High Street, Old BrentfordThis is at the eastern end of the High Street on the southern side, lying opposite Ealing Road and Albany Parade. It runs from east to west from Smith Hill to Goat Wharf. This section of the High Street was listed as ‘Front Street’ in the 1851 census, presumably in contrast to ‘Back Lane’ and includes Brentford's second Police Station and George IV PH.A photo from the early 1950s (S26) shows only the Police Station still standing; this stretch was otherwise a series of advertising hoardings. A 2006 photo (S26) shows two large office blocks Albany House and Thameside House occupying this stretch. PropertiesNotes prepared for numbers 35, 36, 41, Police Station (42), 43, 44, 46, 47 and George IV (50); also a list of photos, ephemera and maps Number 35A lodging house on the corner of Smith Hill occupied by over 20 people in the 1871, 1881 and 1891 censuses; Sarah Rogers was the head of household in 1871 & 1881 and in 1871 there is a note in the census suggesting it may have been known as ‘The Swan’.North Thames Gas Board records held at the LMA refer to ‘a copyhold messuage in Smith’s Hill Old Brentford, now 35 High Street, Brentford’ (1890). In 1901 as ‘a copyhold tenement in Smith’s Hill, house formerly there now destroyed, known as 35 High Street’. There is also a provisional valuation for Land Tax for number 35 in 1915. (I). The 1909/10 Valuation describes the plot as 'Land at Smith Hill with frontage to High Street, formerly known as 35 High Street'. It was owned by Charles Pascall and described as 'vacant land with advertisement hoarding'. A note dated 25/09/1917 adds 'site slopes away towards river'. TopNumber 36A coffee house from 1861 – 1901, run by Richard Gardiner in 1881 - 1901. Richard Gardiner was born in Brentford and his father William was a bricklayer at no. 371. In 1913 Maurice Stanton, incubator manufacturer; not listed in 1913 or later directories. The 1909/10 Valuation Records describe it as a ‘dilapidated old house and shop at the West corner of Smith Hill'
Number 41The 1909/10 Valuation describes the plot as ‘site of wharf and dock with various buildings erected thereon used as engine room; tool and plant shop; smithy, saw mill etc. One good building erected in 1907, brick built and slated, about 80’ long, 32’ high, 25’ wide.’ The Thames Steam Tug and Lighterage Co owned and occupied the site, which had a frontage of 32’ to the High Street.The Police Station at number 42The Police Station was built in 1869, opened 1870, for the Metropolitan Police, T Division, opposite Charlton House; vacated 1966 (the Police Station moved to Half Acre), pulled down 1969 and the area occupied by empty office block in 1996 (A38). This replaced the earlier Police Station on the corner of Town Meadow Rd (number 60). (C52).In 1871 James Tarling, aged 39 was the Inspector and about 18 police constables (a few with wives) are listed here, suggesting there was accommodation for many; there were also two women prisoners Isabella Reed & Ellen Ryan. James Tarling was still in post in 1874, but by 1881 John Rowling from St Columb, Cornwall, was in charge, aged just 24. James Tarling meantime had become a licensed victualler and was running the Red Lion, across the road at no. 318 in 1881. John Rowling remained here in 1901, at which point around 30 people lived here: 19 unmarried PCs plus 4 married men, including John, with their families. In 1913 Thomas Faulkner, sub-divisional inspector, was in charge; in 1920 George Dear; in 1928 Henry Baughan. In 1933 John Young & William Ritchie were inspectors, in 1940 W. Ross. The 1909/10 Valuation described the Police Station as ‘brick built and slated building on three floors, good condition and well built.’
Arthur Fanning, a descendant of Number 43A farriers for over 60 years. The 1839/41 tithe return describes the property as a house, smiths forge & premises owned by Thomas Harrington and occupied by Thomas & John Baily. Thomas & John are listed in Pigot’s 1839 directory as blacksmiths and farriers. John Bailey headed the household in 1841, then Thomas from 1851 through to 1881. In 1891 Harry W Wise, a farrier born in Wiltshire (Westbury?) lived and worked here, by 1901 William Kerslake, another farrier. He remained here in 1913 but by 1920 no trade was associated with the property. By 1933 the Metropolitan Winding Co., electrical engineers, was established here and remembered for the sound of their lathes – see no. 44.In the 1909/10 Valuation Records the property was described as a ‘semi-detached house, blacksmith’s shop, stable & premises’. The frontage was 27’ and at the side of the house was a dilapidated forge, 22’ 3”. At the rear of the property was a ‘dilapidated 2-stall stable’.‘The house is old property’. TopNumber 44Maurice Lockyer describes his maternal grandparents’ (Harry Underhill & Emily nee Chelton) home as ‘a two bedroom cottage house with a large coal cellar and outside loo, no front garden and two steps up to the front door. Harry & Emily brought up 12 children here. The house was next door to a single storey machine workshop by the old police station and opposite the undertaker where there was always two Dalmation dogs looking out at the passing trams.’ The house ‘only ever had gas lighting with mantles’ and ‘a small rear garden with a brick wall at the rear which overlooked a river shore tiled roof shed, with views across Lots Ait to Kew Gardens’.The workshop next door housed ‘engineering lathes which could be heard humming through the structure into the Dining room.’ Maurice has prepared a vivid account of the Underhill and Lockyer families. Records show Henry Underhill listed at number 45 in 1913, 1920 & 1928; in 1933 & 1940 at number 44, the house remembered by his grandson; next door, at number 43a, was the Metropolitan Winding Co. which became known as the Great West Electrical Co, in 1940. The undertakers Maurice remembers are probably Frederick Sargeant, who had premises at number 308/9 in 1933 & 1940. The 1909/10 Valuation describes no. 44 ‘House and premises, frontage 11’ 3”, owner A. N. Newens (presumably a descendant of Newens the bakers at no. 327) 1 Kew Road, Kew, annual rent £20 16s. Terrace house of 2 storeys: top floor 2 rooms and slip room; ground floor 2 rooms, washhouse and WC. Small yard at rear. Premises old and dirty’. TopNumber 46In 1871 Edward Bovingdon, poulterer, lived and traded from no. 46 and the Bovingdon family remained at this address until at least 1940. In 1871 the household consisted of Edward, his wife Mary and 6 adult children, plus a female servant: all born in Buckinghamshire.Edward died in 1878 and by 1881 his widow Mary had taken over the business supported by three unmarried children, Mary (37), John C (30) and Elizabeth (29). Meanwhile her son Henry ran a lodging house at 328 High Street and James was a butcher at 325 High Street. Mary Bovingdon continued to head the household in 1891, aged 74, with daughter Elizabeth and son John, but died in the April to June quarter. Following her death son John took over and is recorded as a poulterer at no. 46 in 1901, age 45. He had an assistant, Percy Grant, age 16, possibly a son of his Grant neighbours at no. 45. In the 1909/10 Valuation no. 46 is described as 'very old, dilapidated property' owned by John Bovingdon. It had 2 attics on the top floor, 2 rooms on the first floor and a shop, parlour and washhouse on the ground floor. At the rear was an old shed and WC. It had a covered forecourt. John Bovingdon was recorded at no. 46 in trade directories up to and including 1933. His death was registered in Brentford at the age on 86 in 1936. In 1940 Reginald Woods lived here. TopNumber 47Before 1881 the occupancy of no. 47 is not clearcut, as there is no continuity of trade or surname.In 1881 Ann Bissell, a widowed, Shropshire-born "basket maker's wife", lived here with her three children and a lodger (David P Morgan, a confectioner's traveller born in South Wales). The property was not occupied in 1891. In 1901 Thomas W Barnham, locally born builder, lived here with wife and two small children. The 1909/10 Valuation describes no.47 as a terrace house of 3 storeys, with 2 attics, 2 rooms on the first floor, on the ground floor 2 rooms, a washhouse and WC at rear. The property was 'old' and owned by Frank Peacock. In 1907 Miss Mary Ann Dickman, secondhand furniture dealer, is recorded at no. 47; 1911 and 1913: Frederick Oliver; 1920/21: Thomas Moody; 1933: Mrs Moody; 1940: Leonard Smith. TopGeorge IV PH at number 50The PH was on the east corner of Goat Wharf: listed from 1839 to 1928 but not in 1933; John Stacey was the publican in 1839 & 1841; there is a PCC will for John Stacey in 1854; in 1845 J Barnes was in charge; by 1851 William Edwards,from Suffolk, who had recently moved here from Pimlico with his wife Julia and three children under 3; then William Milton in 1861; William Cooper from Kent had taken over by 1871 and remained here in 1881 and 1891; in 1901 Mrs Catherine Mumford, widow of John Mumford (see above, no. 42) was the publican and she remained here in 1913; Joseph B Hart has taken over by 1920, and was still here in 1928.By 1933 the premises were not listed, but in 1940 H Willmott and Sons, cycle dealers were at number 50, in 1952 Brenray Industries Ltd. TopPhotos/Ephemera/MapsLinks are included below to any photos, ephemera or maps accessible on this site.References such as '1899 (X11)' indicate the date of a photo (1899) and where it is published (X11). Details of 'X' are available: see Mainly paper sources page; '11' refers to the page no, or photo no. in the publication. Goat Wharf photo- 1946 (H) 42 Police Station photo – 1901 (C52); early 1950s (S26) 43 Shoeing Forge run by Kerslake Bros., R.S.S. (Registered Shoeing Smith) (advert 1906) 45A Line drawing showing in the centre a row of 4 cottages, each with an attic room and set back slightly from the High Street. At either end of the run of cottages are houses, that on the left having a flat roof, that on the right a rather grand entrance, both front directly on to the High Street. The drawing is dated 1913 and titled ‘45A High Street’, though it is not clear which property is ‘45A’. 50 Brenray Industries Ltd, electrical radio and television engineers (1952 invoice) Warning - download over 100k! 1894 Ordnance Survey Map annotated with house numbers including numbers 40 - 50 Roads OffSmith Hill: between numbers 34 & 35Goat Wharf: between numbers 50 & 51. Wiltshire & Swindon Record Office holds an agreement dated 1907 between James Clements & George Knowling (of Goat Wharf, trading as Clements Knowling & Co) and the Great Western Railway for tenancy of stables at High Street Brentford (I). James Clements was also the deputy superintendent of the Fire Brigade in 1913 and Charter Mayor of Brentford & Chiswick. |